If you, dear reader, have opened this article, it means that you are faced with the same problem that I faced a few years ago, but ... successfully solved it.

So, your plumbing has low pressure (or if you want pressure).

I'll tell you how I solved this problem using my own example.

Both text and video versions are waiting for you. So, if you watch the article to the end, but you still have questions, watch the video that I shot for you (video at the end of the article) .

A pipe from the main water supply enters this pit (photo below), and my meter is right there. Then there is a branching into the house and into the street column.

Very often, the pressure is so low that the water does not rise not only into the house, but even into the gander of this street column.

Let's take a look at the top of the hole...

This is what my layout looks like.

The pipe from the highway enters the pit on the left. Next is a counter with a filter and a check valve.

And here is the solution: I installed a pressure booster pump. It would seem ... put the pump and enjoy civilization. But there are nuances that I encountered and which additionally also had to be heroically resolved.

Before acquiring this pump, in times of "waterlessness" I collected water from a tap located at the level of the counter. For the convenience of collecting water, I dug a galvanized container of 20 liters into the ground under the tap. It is needed in order to lower a bucket into it on a rope, substituting it under a crane.

For some time, this decision helped me a lot - although with efforts, I got water!

In the end, I got tired of it and I put the pump. But…

But... The performance of the pump turned out to be higher than the amount of water coming from the pipeline. After a few seconds of operation, the pump pumped out all the water from the pipe, "grabbed" the air and ... then it worked idly.

So I had to go to the trick:

Parallel to the pump (5), a cock (3) is installed. When the water goes well, I open it. When I used the pump, I closed it so that the flow went through the pump.

So, I needed to reduce the performance of the pump. I achieved this with the help of the same crane (3)! All in all, I covered it somewhere halfway. Now the pump “drives” half of the flow in a circle through the flow sensor (6), faucet (2), faucet (3), faucet (1), pump (5), and the other half goes into the pipe (7) - into the house.

The house has a 500l water tank. From this tank, a pumping station with a hydraulic accumulator supplies water to all my “points”.

The flow sensor (6), although installed, is in a disabled state. The whole process of pumping a 500-liter tank, I control personally. In my case, this sensor is more trouble than good.

How much the tap (3) needs to be closed ... can only be established empirically, gradually covering it from the “open” state to the “closed” state.

Gorvodokanal supplies us with water 2 times a day: in the morning and in the evening. And therefore, for the normal operation of the pump, through the tap (4), I have to bleed the air that fills the pipe when the water utility does not pump water.

In total, for one process of pumping water, I have to drain from 10 to 20 liters of water during the release of air.

During the use of this pump, I have already learned to determine “by ear” whether it pumps water or “grabs” air. If the sound of the pump is quiet and deaf, then there is air in the pump. If the sound is sonorous and loud, it means pumping water. (this is shown in the video)

Surely you noticed two light bulbs near the brickwork. This is a kind of heating of the pit (and especially the pump) in the winter. Although I insulate the pit for the winter, but in severe frosts, this is not enough.

The lamps are connected in series (so they will burn out less often). I turn them on only when the frost drops to -20 and below.

Well, here is the promised video that I shot for you: